March 26th, 27th: Korea Day 1

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Thursday, March 26th
I have a history with traveling that makes me really paranoid about taking flights and going places for the first time so I check and double and triple check things to make sure everything runs smoothly (ie I don't get lost). We managed to assemble at Hamamatsucho station on time and get to Haneda Airport on Thursday with no problems. The only bump in the road was that we didn't realize we had to take a bus to the international terminal but that was no problem. There was no line up and the guy who checked us in was super nice though it takes quite a long time when 5 people travel together. I don't recall family check-ins ever taking so long but maybe it's faster if you all have the same last name (or are from the same country, at least).

Haneda airport is such a dive. The international terminal only has 3 gates. I thought it was supposed to be the 4th busiest airport in the world. We flew Asiana Airlines and the flight was only 2 and a half hours. We even got a meal and free alcohol! Andrew has issues flying but he wasn't as bad as I imagined although I had to pull the mom card once and order him to sit tight and shut up when we were landing. Arrived in Gimpo at 10pm and by the time we got through immigration and navigated to the subway it was nearly 11. We only had to transfer once and we arrived at Hyehwa station around 11:30. The area was full of shops and restaurants and we ran into this foreign lady (American?) on the street who asked if we were looking for a hostel and escorted us there.

My initial impression of Korea: holy shit, is it dirty. There was trash all over the sides of the roads, just lying on the street. They don't have dumpsters like Japan, though they are slightly better at having garbage cans for trash. And it smells. Not constantly but every once and a while you get a whiff of something foul and it's not nice.

We got into our hostel and dumped our stuff and went to find something to eat. Andrew was on about street meat but we ended up at Lotteria instead. We asked for a jimjilbang (like a sento) in the area and went and had a soak there before bed. They are different than sentos, but more like saunas. You go in and get washed up like a sento or onsen but then you wear shorts and a t-shirt and go to a co-ed area that has rooms of different temperatures and where you can eat and sleep. We only stayed for about an hour before heading back to sleep.

Friday, March 27th
On our first day, we met up with Andrew's friend Semi for lunch. We actually saw her every day of our trip! She and Andrew met when they both went on exchange to Japan in high school and she was working in Japan last year, which was where I met her. She took us around and played tour guide which was awesome. We went for local noodle specialty and then did a tour of one of the palaces. Changdeokgung (Changdeok Palace) is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site and is the best preserved of the five grand palaces in Seoul.

The tour was only so-so because there were so many people. Our guide had a little microphone/speaker thing that could make her louder but she would talk and walk at the same time which a no-no for tours. There were also a good 50 or so people in the group. It was really interesting learning about how the Korean royal family lived. This palace was originally built in the Joseon dynasty, in 1405, and used right up until the last king died in the 1920s and the remaining royal family lived there until they died in the 80s.

Donhwamun Gate: the main palace gate. Built 1412, the oldest of the gates still standing.

Injeongjeon: the throne hall where kings were coronated and received foreign diplomats. A designated national treasure, originally built 1405, destroyed in Imjin Wars, restored 1609, destroyed by fire in 1803; the current structure dates from 1804.

Seonjeongjeon: the administrative chambers, where the king discussed state affairs. This is the only structure in the palace with a blue tiled roof, the colour associated with dragons which symbolized the king’s administrative office. Our tour guide was totally bitchy but I loved it. She kept asking for responses from the crowd when she asked questions.

Huijeongdang: inside the king’s bedchamber. I didn't take as many pictures as I would have liked to of inside the buildings because the lighting was crap and I didn't want to miss what the guide was saying.

Daejojeon: the queen’s residence

The roof of the queen’s residence was different than the rest: there was no double ridge along the top, which was thought to allow the spirit of the dragon to enter easily to help her conceive the next king.

Nakseonjae: this complex was built by the last king, Heonjong, for his second wife. The architecture is very simple, compared with the other buildings in the palace. This is where the last crown princess lived (Nashimoto-no-Miya Masako of Japan) until her death in 1989, I think.

Gyujanggak and Juhamnu: the royal library and research institute lies in the middle of the Secret Garden. The books that belonged to this library were moved to Seoul National University during the Japanese occupation and the Juhamnu was turned into an area for the queen to grow silkworms.

Yeonhwadang: a pavilion for royals to rest in the Secret Garden. The garden was a place for the king to come practice archery and horseback riding. They would also hold court examinations here in the presence of the king.

Semi and her friend Pyeongju, Ben and Takeshi walking the Secret Garden.

Back at the beginning, looking fabulous.

After the palace tour, I wanted to go to Bukchon. The name means “Northern Village” and is between Gyeongbukgung (the main palace) and Changdeokgung. This area was where people who worked in and for the palaces lived. Today, with over 900 hanok (traditional houses) crammed together, it’s still very much like it was 600 years ago. We found the Bukchon Traditional Culture Centre and the volunteer there gave us a short tour. Usually, you have to call a day ahead to arrange it in your language but it must have been a slow day because he took us right away.

Jaedong Elementary school: our guide said that many military generals attended this school.

According to our guide, Korean people believe that everything has a spirit, even trees. So that’s why they won’t cut down this tree, but build around it, even though it’s totally in the way and makes a huge mess in the fall.

This area was surrounded by two rivers that gave good drainage. The village was built up around yin and yang and the five elements theory so it was thought that the North Village was a really prosperous place to live. Even today, some people think living in this area will bring good luck and fortune.

Good luck phrases are pasted on the door in the spring so that there will be a good harvest in the fall.

The view from the top of Gahoedong street.  You can see Seoul tower in the distance.

The front door of the house that the president of Korea lived in before being elected. He thought that living in Bukchon would bring him good luck; I guess it worked.

Bukchon is being maintained as a cultural centre so it’s really wealthy for that reason. We saw some modern houses and really artsy ones too. Apparently a big corporation bought some land here and build a bunch of houses (kind of like subdivisions back home) but now people want to have “Korean” houses so they are renovating back to the Hanok style.

Our last stop was a dental office that has been around since the 1920s. It’s in a hanok and Korean people go there because they feel more at peace than a regular Western office. We could go inside and look and it was really tiny but pretty. The buildings are square with a garden in the middle. I ended up taking a fall inside and now have a monster bruise on my leg. :( I didn’t take any pictures so I’ll edit when I get some.

With our guide. :) What a nice guy.

Afterwards we went for coffee and hit up a bookstore to look for a book for Yvonne’s friend.

Because I was in Brownies. :D

Gyeongbukgung Palace: the main palace of the Joseon kings. The main gate is under restoration so the whole complex is walled off with ugly plasterboard. This is the bigger palace and they use it to film period dramas on Mondays.

I just had to. It would have been cheaper to buy it in Korea: 20% off and the won is total shit right now! Plus, no shipping. Oh well.

At night we went to Hongdae, the clubbing area near Yonsei University. Lots of bars and places to eat along the streets. We got asked by several random people the direction of bars while we were standing on the street. On the last Friday of every month they have an “all you can enter” deal where you pay 20,000 won and you can go into all the clubs for the night.

The little stall we ate built around this little cinnamon tree.

We met Chris from the States who was also staying at our hostel.

Makkoli, Korean rice wine. Really delicious!

Kompei!

Pajeon

Another kind of jeon

Tteokboggi (mochi and tempura in spicy sauce)

We ended up going to Harlem because there was no line up and they play “Black Music”. Whatever that’s supposed to be.

That's just Day 1.  I'm putting off Day 2 since that took so freaking long to edit.  I should pilfer Justin's pictures too because he took a shitton more than I did.  I slept for another 5 hours this morning and got up when some ladies rang my bell at 10am trying to convert me to Jesus.  It's been a year since they've come around but I didn't answer the door this time.  I learned my lesson.  Watched the first episode of Korean Hanadan and it's interesting.  They've gone through like the first 2 episodes of the Japanese one already so I wonder what they're going to do to make it stretch on for another 24 episodes.

Comments

[maiaide.livejournal.com]

Yeah they are quite Chinesey. It didn't really clue in but yeah. There were characters all over them. Andrew said Seoul (or Korea) is exactly like NYC in terms of garbage. LOL

I want to watch some period dramas! Maybe I'll rewatch Goong. I enjoyed it.

You haven't even seen Samgyopsal yet. That was my favourite. I'm going try and find a pajeon restaurant in Tokyo. :D And Canada when I get back. FOR SURE.

[iaoiua.livejournal.com]

Yeah, I definitely saw roofs and paint just like that, only not as well-kept (sigh) in China — http://picasaweb.google.com/iaoiua/cAVCkF#

I heard from my college roommate that Ijilmae was good (though apparently based off a Chinese story). I've heard good things about Hong Gil-dong as well.

I'm sure you can find pajeon at any Korean restaurant ... but if there is a special pajeon restaurant, I need to know, hahaha. I love kimchi and hae meul pajeon x: